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The Aztek has the most hypersensitive trigger I have ever felt, this is what I use.

There's no such thing as the "best" airbrush. There are so many independent variables on what constitutes being the "Best" that it's hard to generalize and isolate one particular brush to be the best for all concerned. Trying to diatribe about what constitutes the best is just like saying who has the best steak at a certain steakhouse, it is an immensely vague and grey area and mark my words you will never win. You will have many things to consider when choosing/buying your brush such as:

Ergonomics: The weight displacement of the brush in your* hand and of course how heavy your hand is.

Translation= People with heavy hands tend to like metal airbrushes i.e. the Paasche VL, Iwatas, etc and this is particularly important via "Spacial awareness" in shading. So the heavier your hand, the heavier of an airbrush I think you need.

What your trying to do with the brush: Are you doing blockouts, blasting,coverage, detail....what?

Translation: I would not use a Paasche VL for detail, I would use a custom micron, an Aztek 4709, or an airbrush which has more trigger hypersensitivity in which the Iwata Revolution, Eclipse do not offer in my opinion. ( Note: theres a big jump in trigger hypersensitivity once you jump above $159.00 in the Iwata family ). Also let us take in consideration that when you read any discription on any airbrush its going to propagate in its specs that it gets a "Hair-like line" etc. Let us try to remember that this is one of the biggest mistakes that people fall for when it comes to discerning the inner dynamics of what constitutes control. Always remember this: It's one thing to get a fine line, but it's another to be able to sculpt and shade that fine line SMALL SCALE without getting a cramp at the base of your hand or pinky. Many people force themselves to try and get detail with an airbrush that just was not meant to work at a certain level and they end up getting RMI ( Repetitive movement injury). So everyone has their "Idea" on what detail means. Detail could mean a photorealistic crease around an eye or a palm tree on a t-shirt, so let us all take that into consideration before we iconoclast the "Detail Phenominon".

How much can you afford to spend: I would recommend the Iwata HPC plus and above ( Price-wise) if your going spray automotive paints i.e. the Iwata is the industry standard in the field and here in Indiana you can snag one for around $159.00.( Note: Do not try and save money and expect the same performance from and Iwata HPC as opposed to an HPC PLUS...big difference in control, so spend the extra $60 bucks.) If your gonna go all out and get the "Rolls Royce" of all airbrushes then snag an Iwata micron, but I personally use the Aztek 4709 because I have not found to this day an airbrush that has the softness of the trigger. ( Aztek Kits are around $100 on ebay or of course snag a 40% off coupon at an art store and it will only be $92.) I do not use the Aztek airbrush because of the quality of the brush i.e. how it's manufactured, ( Actually they have a long way to go to get to the level of how durable metal airbrushes are made). I use it because I can do the artwork without getting a cramp in my hand. When you work smaller.. you need more detail....thus a softer trigger. Small to me isn't a drop shadow on a flame, small is a crease or shadow transition around the rhetoric muscles of an eye etc. The Aztek company needs to make their airbrushes more durable thats for sure but it gets the job done and feels like a pencil in my hand, which is my personal law for choosing the right airbrush. ( Pencil in my hand means that I can shade with the same acuity that I can with a pencil, without getting a cramp in my hand, which is usually at the base of the pinky). I also recommend any of the Omni airbrushes as they are amazingly durable airbrushes and as far as "Bang for your buck" you cannot lose with this family of airbrushes. The control is great and I actually did a whole gymnasium floor with a bottom feed Omni and only had tip dry three times in a 40 hour work-week. I call the Omni the "Poor-mans-Iawata" but it's a great airbrush and has been around a long time. Last time I looked Omni's were priced very friendly, but they vary in different venues.

Translation: If you look in any airbrush magazine you will see that in the studios of the artist's, you almost NEVER see just one airbrush, you see many different kinds yielding to many diverse applications and scale. Take all of these things in consideration and ask people what they have, and most importantly what PRESSURE their spraying and the scale-size their working at because that affects the line acuity and the softness of the trigger. Most Microns have hard triggers at 50 PSI ( Thus you need significantly lower pressure) and most Azteks perform very poorly at anything under 50 PSI. So there's going to have to be some chatting going on and exchanging of imagery to see who achieved what with a certain airbrush.

Last note: Stay away from single action airbrushes. They are about as useful as a can of Krylon Spraypaint as far as detail. You need a double action airbrush to do almost everything. When I taught high school airbrush and one of the kids did a great job in class, at the end of the semester we had an MVP and I used to go to Goodwill and get a bowling trophie, break the bowling guy off and mount a single action airbrush with super glue, spray paint it gold, and give it out as an award. So that is the only real use I have ever found with a single action airbrush lol besides of course maybe blasting clouds or spraying stain on a rocking chair lol...or spraying stain on a rocking chair lol. Hope this helps.